AMONG THE NATIONAL FORESTS OF THE SOUTHWEST
You have not ridden far towards the
ranger’s house in the Forest before you become
aware that clothing for town is not clothing for the
wilds. No matter how hot it may be at midday,
in this high, rare air a chill comes soon as the sun
begins to sink. To be comfortable, light flannels
must be worn next the skin, with an extra heavy coat
available-never farther away from yourself
than the pack straps. Night may overtake you
on a hard trail. Long as you have an extra heavy
coat and a box of matches, night does not matter.
You are safer benighted in the wilds than in New York
or Chicago. If you have camp fire and blanket,
night in the wilds knows nothing of the satyr-faced
spirit of evil, sand-bagger and yeggman, that stalks
the town.
To anyone used to travel in the wilderness,
it seems almost like little boys playing Robinson
Crusoe to give explicit directions as to dress.
Yet only a few years ago, the world was shocked and
horrified by the death of a town man exploring the
wilds; and that death was directly traceable to a
simple matter of boots. His feet played out.
He had gone into a country of rocky portages
with only one pair of moccasins. I have never
gone into the wilds for longer than four months at
a time. Yet I have never gone with less than
four sets of footgear. Primarily, you need a
pair of good outing boots; and outing boots are good
only when they combine two qualities-comfort
and thick enough soles to protect your feet from sharp
rock edges if you climb, broad enough soles, too,
to protect the edge of your feet from hard knocks from
passing trees and jars in the stirrup. For the
rest, you need about two extras in case you chip chunks
out of these in climbing; and if you camp near glaciers
or snow fields, a pair of moccasins for night wear
will add to comfort. You may get them if you
like to spend the money-$8 leggings and
$8 horsehide shoes and cowboy hat and belted corduroy
suit and all the other paraphernalia by which the
seasoned Westerner recognizes the tenderfoot.
You may get them if you want to. It will not hurt
you; but a $3 cowboy slicker for rainy days and a
pair of boots guaranteed to let the water out as fast
as it comes in, these and the ordinary outing garments
of any other part of the world are the prime essentials.
This matter of proper preparation
recalls a little English woman who determined to train
her boys and girls to be resourceful and independent
by taking them camping each summer in the forests of
the Pacific Coast. They were on a tramp one day
twelve miles from camp when a heavy fog blew in, and
they lost themselves. That is not surprising when
you consider the big tree country. Two notches
and one blaze mark the bounds of the National Forests;
one notch and one blaze, the trail; but they had gone
off the trail trout fishing. “If they had
been good path-finders, they could have found the
way out by following the stream down,” remarked
a critic of this little group to me; and a very apt
criticism it was from the safe vantage point of a study
chair. How about it, if when you came to follow
the stream down, it chanced to cut through a gorge
you couldn’t follow, with such a sheer fall of
rock at the sides and such a crisscross of big trees,
house-high, that you were driven back from the stream
a mile or two? You would keep your directions
by sunlight? Maybe; but that big tree region is
almost impervious to sunlight; and when the fog blows
in or the clouds blow down thick as wool, you will
need a pocket compass to keep the faintest sense of
direction. Compass signs of forest-lore fail here.
There are few flowers under the dense roofing to give
you sense of east or west; and you look in vain for
the moss sign on the north bark of the tree.
All four sides are heavily mossed; and where the little
Englishwoman lost herself, they were in ferns to their
necks.
“Weren’t the kiddies afraid?” I
asked.
“Not a bit! Bob got the
trout ready; and Son made a big fire. We curled
ourselves up round it for the night; and I wish you
could have seen the children’s delight when
the clouds began to roll up below in the morning.
It was like a sea. The youngsters had never seen
clouds take fire from the sun coming up below.
I want to tell you, too, that we put out every spark
of that fire before we left in the morning.”
All of which conveys its own moral
for the camper in the National Forests.
It ought not to be necessary to say
that you cannot go to the National Forests expecting
to billet yourself at the ranger’s house.
Many of the rangers are married and have a houseful
of their own. Those not married, have no facilities
whatever for taking care of you. In my visit to
the Vasquez Forest, I happened to have a letter of
introduction to the ranger and his mother, who took
me in with that bountiful hospitality characteristic
of the frontier; but directly across the road from
the ranger’s cabin was a little log slab-sided
hotel where any comer could have stayed in perfect
comfort for $7 a week; and at the station, where the
train stopped, was another very excellent little hotel
where you could have stayed and enjoyed meals that
for nutritious cooking might put a New York dinner
to shame-all to the tune of $10 a week.
Also, at this very station, is the Supervisor’s
office of the Forestry Department. By inquiry
here, the newcomer can ascertain all facts as to tenting
outfit and camping place. Only one point must
be kept in mind-do not go into the National
Forests expecting the railroads, or the rangers, or
Providence, to look after you. Do not go unless
you are prepared to look after yourself.
And now that you are in the National
Forests, what are you going to do? You can ride;
or you can hunt; or you can fish; or you can bathe
in the hot springs that dot so many of these intermountain
regions, where God has landscaped the playground for
a nation; or you can go in for records mountain climbing;
or you can go sightseeing in the most marvelously
beautiful mountain scenery in the whole world; or you
can prowl round the prehistoric cave and cliff dwellings
of a race who flourished in mighty power, now solitary
and silent cities, contemporaneous with that Egyptian
desert runner whose skeleton lies in the British Museum
marked 20,000 B. C. It isn’t every day you can
wander through the deserted chambers of a king’s
palace with 500 rooms. Tourist agencies organize
excursion parties for lesser and younger palaces in
Europe. I haven’t heard of any to visit
the silent cities of the cliff and cave dwellers on
the Jemez Plateau of New Mexico, or the Gila River,
Arizona, or even the easily accessible dead cities
of forgotten peoples in the National Forest of Southern
Colorado. What race movement in the first place
sent these races perching their wonderful tier-on-tier
houses literally on the tip-top of the world?
The prehistoric remains of the Southwest
are now, of course, under the jurisdiction of the
Forestry Department; and you can’t go digging
and delving and carrying relics from the midden heaps
and baked earthen floors without the permission of
the Secretary of Agriculture; but if you go in the
spirit of an investigator, you will get that permission.
The question isn’t what is
there to do. It is which of the countless
things there are to do are you going to choose
to do? When Mr. Roosevelt goes to the National
Forests, he strikes for the Holy Cross Mountain and
bags a grizzly. When ordinary folk hie to this
Forest, they take along a bathing suit and indulge
in a daily plunge in the hot pools at Glenwood Springs.
If the light is good and the season yet early, you
can still see the snow in the crevices of the peak,
giving the Forest its name of the Holy Cross.
People say there is no historic association to our
West. Once a foolish phrase is uttered, it is
surprising how sensible people will go on repeating
it. Take this matter of the “Holy Cross”
name. If you go investigating how these “Holy
Cross” peaks got their names from old Spanish
padres riding their burros into the wilderness,
it will take you a hard year’s reading just to
master the Spanish legends alone. Then, if you
dive into the realm of the cliff dwellers, you will
be drowned in historic antiquity before you know.
In the Glenwood Springs region, you will not find
the remnants of prehistoric people; but you’ll
find the hot springs.
Just two warnings: one as to
hunting; the other, as to mountain climbing.
There is still big game in Colorado Forests-bear,
mountain sheep, elk, deer; and the ranger is supposed
to be a game warden; but a man patrolling 100,000
acres can’t be all over at one time. As
to mountain climbing, you can get your fill of it
in Grand Canyon, above Ouray, at Pike’s Peak-a
dozen places, and only the mountain climber and his
troglodyte cliff-climbing prototype know the drunken,
frenzied joy of climbing on the roof of the earth
and risking life and limb to stand with the kingdoms
of the world at your feet. But unless you are
a trained climber, take a guide with you, or the advice
of some local man who knows the tricks and the moods
and the wiles and the ways of the upper mountain world.
Looking from the valley up to the peak, a patch of
snow may seem no bigger to you than a good-sized table-cloth.
Look out! If it is steep beneath that “table-cloth”
and the forest shows a slope clean-swept of trees
as by a mighty broom, be careful how you cross and
recross following the zigzag trail that corkscrews
up below the far patch of white! I was crossing
the Continental Divide one summer in the West when
a woman on the train pointed to a patch of white about
ten miles up the mountain slope and asked if “that”
were “rock or snow.” I told her it
was a very large snow field, indeed; that we saw only
the forefoot of it hanging over the edge; that the
upper part was supposed to be some twenty miles across.
She gave me a look meant for Mrs. Ananias. A
month later, when I came back that way, the train suddenly
slowed up. The slide had come down and lay in
white heaps across the track three or four miles down
into the valley and up the other side. The tracks
were safe enough; for the snow shed threw the slide
over the track on down the slope; but it had caught
a cluster of lumbermen’s shacks and buried eight
people in a sudden and eternal sleep. “We
saw it coming,” said one of the survivors, “and
we thought we had plenty of time. It must have
been ten miles away. One of the men went in to
get his wife. Before he could come out, it was
on us. Man and wife and child were carried down
in the house just as it stood without crushing a timber.
It must have been the concussion of the air-they
weren’t even bruised when we dug them out; but
the kid couldn’t even have wakened up where
it lay in the bed; and the man hadn’t reached
the inside room; but they were dead, all three.”
And near Ouray another summer, a chance
acquaintance pointed to a peak. “That one
caught my son last June,” he said. “He
was the company’s doctor. He had been born
and raised in these mountains; but it caught him.
We knew the June heat had loosened those upper fields;
and his wife didn’t want him to go; but there
was a man sick back up the mountain; and he set out.
They saw it coming; but it wasn’t any use.
It came-quick-” with a
snap of his fingers-“as that; and
he was gone.”
It’s a saying among all good
mountaineers that it’s “only the fool who
monkeys with a mountain,” especially the mountain
with a white patch above a clean-swept slope.
And there is another thing for the
holiday player in the National Forests to do; and
it is the thing that I like best to do. You have
been told so often that you have come to believe it-that
our mountains in America lack the human interests;
lack the picturesque character and race types dotting
the Alps, for instance. Don’t you believe
it! Go West! There isn’t a mountain
or a forest from New Mexico to Idaho that has not
its mountaineering votary, its quaint hermit, or its
sky-top guide, its refugee from civilization, or simply
its lover of God’s Great Outdoors and Peace
and Big Silence, living near to the God of the Great
Open as log cabin on a hilltop capped by the stars
can bring him. Wild creatures of woodland ways
don’t come to your beck and call. You have
to hunt out their secret haunts. The same with
these Western mountaineers. Hunt them out; but
do it with reverence! I was driving in the Gunnison
country with a local magnate two years ago. We
saw against the far sky-line a cleft like the arched
entrance to a cave; only this arch led through the
rock to the sky beyond.
“I wish,” said my guide,
“you had time to spend two or three weeks here.
We’d take you to the high country above these
battlements and palisades. See that hole in the
mountain?”
“Rough Upper Alpine meadows?” I asked.
“Oh, dear no! Open park
country with lakes and the best of fishing. It
used to be an almost impossible trail to get up there;
but there has been a hermit fellow there for the last
ten years, living in his cabin and hunting; and year
after year, never paid by anybody, he has been building
that trail up. When men ask him why he does it,
he says it’s to lead people up; for the glory
of God and that sort of thing. Of course, the
people in the valley think him crazy.”
Of course, they do. What would
we, who love the valley and its dust and its maniacal
jabber of jealousies and dollars do, building trails
to lead people up to see the Glory of God? We
call those hill-crest dwellers the troglodytes.
Is it not we, who are the earth dwellers, the dust
eaters, the insects of the city ant heaps, the true
troglodytes and subsoilers of the sordid iniquities?
Perhaps, by this, you think there are some things
to do if you go out to the National Forests.
You have been told so often that the
National Forests lock up timber from use that it comes
as a surprise as you ride up the woodland trail to
hear the song of the crosscut saw and the buzzing hum
of a mill-perhaps a dozen mills-running
full blast here in this National Forest. Heaps
of sawdust emit the odors of imprisoned flowers.
Piles of logs lie on all sides stamped at the end
U. S.-timber sold on the stump to any lumberman
and scaled as inspected by the ranger and paid by the
buyer. To be sure, the lumberman cannot have the
lumber for nothing; and it was for nothing that the
Forests were seized and cut under the old regime.
How was the spoliation effected?
Two or three ways. The law of the public domain
used to permit burn and windfall to be taken out free.
Your lumberman, then, homesteaded 160 acres on a slope
of forest affording good timber skids and chutes.
So far, no wrong! Was not public domain open
to homesteading? Good; but your homesteading lumberman
now watched his chance for a high wind away from his
claim. Then, purely accidentally, you understand,
the fire sprang up and swept the entire slope of green
forest away from his claim. Your homesteading
lumberman then set up a sawmill. A fire fanned
up a green slope by a high wind did less harm than
fire in a slow wind in dry weather. The slope
would be left a sweep of desolate burn and windfall,
dead trees and spars. Your lumberman then went
in and took his windfall and his burn free. Thousands,
hundreds of thousands, millions of acres of the public
domain, were rifled free from the public in this way.
If challenged, I could give the names of men who became
millionaires by lumbering in this manner.
That was the principle of Congress
when it withdrew from public domain these vast wooded
areas and created the National Forests to include
grazing and woodland not properly administered under
public domain. The making of windfall to take
it free was stopped. The ranger’s job is
to prevent fires. Also he permits the cutting
of only ripe, full-grown trees, or dead tops, or growth
stunted by crowding; and all timber sold off the forests
must be marked for cutting and stamped by the ranger.
But the old spirit assumes protean
forms. The latest way of working the old trick
is through the homestead law. You have been told
that homesteaders cannot go in on the National Forests.
Yet there, as you ride along the trail, is a cleared
space of 160 acres where a Swedish woman and her boys
are making hay; and inquiry elicits the fact that
millions of acres are yearly homesteaded in the National
Forests. Just as fast as they can be surveyed,
all farming lands in the National Forests are opened
to the homesteader. Where, then, is the trick?
Your farmer man comes in for a homestead and he picks
out 160 acres where the growth of big trees is so
dense they will yield from $10,000 to $40,000 in timber
per quarter section. Good! Hasn’t the
homesteader a right to this profit? He certainly
has, if he gets the profit; but supposing he doesn’t
clear more than a few hundred feet round his cabin,
and hasn’t a cent of money to pay the heavy
expense of clearing the rest, and sells out at the
end of his homesteading for a few hundred dollars?
Supposing such farmer men are brought in by excursion
loads by a certain big lumber company, and all sell
out at a few hundred dollars, claims worth millions,
to that certain big lumber company-is this
true homesteading of free land; or a grabbing of timber
for a lumber trust?
The same spirit explains the furious
outcry that miners are driven off the National Forest
land. Wherever there is genuine metal, prospectors
can go in and stake their claims and take lumber for
their preliminary operations; but they cannot stake
thousands of fictitious claims, then yearly turn over
a quarter of a million dollars’ worth of timber
free to a big smelting trust-a merry game
worked in one of the Western States for several years
till the rangers put a stop to it.
To build roads through an empire the
size of Germany would require larger revenues than
the Forests yet afford; so the experiment is being
tried of permitting lumbermen to take the timber free
from the space occupied by a road for the building
of the road. When you consider that you can drive
a span of horses through the width of a big conifer,
or build a cottage of six rooms from a single tree,
the reward for road building is not so paltry as it
sounds.
Presently, your pony turns up a by-path.
You are at the ranger’s cabin,-picturesque
to a degree, built of hewn logs or timbers, with slab
sides scraped down to the cinnamon brown, nailed on
the hewn wood. Many an Eastern country house
built in elaborate and shoddy imitation of town mansion,
or prairie home resembling nothing in the world so
much as an ugly packing box, might imitate the architecture
of the ranger’s cabin to the infinite improvement
of appearances, not to mention appropriateness.
Appropriateness! That is the
word. It is a forest world; and the ranger tunes
the style of his house to the trees around him; log
walls, log partitions, log veranda, unbarked log fences,
rustic seats, fur rugs, natural stone for entrance
steps. In several cases, where the cabin had
been built of square hewn timber with tar paper lining,
slabs scraped of the loose bark had been nailed diagonally
on the outside; and a more suitable finish to a wood
hermitage could hardly be devised-surely
better than the weathered browns and dirty drabs and
peeling whites that you see defacing the average frontier
home. Naturally enough, city people building
cottages as play places have been the first to imitate
this woodsy architecture. You see the slab-sided,
cinnamon-barked cottages among the city folk who come
West to play, and in the lodges of hunting clubs far
East as the Great Lakes. Personally I should like
to see the contagion spread to the farthest East of
city people who are fleeing the cares of town, “back
to the land;” but when there are taken to the
country all the cares of the city house, a regiment
of servants or hostiles, and a mansion of grandeur
demanding such care, it seems to me the city man is
carrying the woes that he flees “back to the
farm.”
What sort of men are these young fellows
living halfway between heaven and earth on the lonely
forested ridges whose nearest neighbors are the snow
peaks? Each, as stated previously, patrols 100,000
acres. That is, over an area of 100,000 acres
he is a road warden, game warden, timber cruiser,
sales agent, United States marshal, forester, gardener,
naturalist, trail builder, fire fighter, cattle boss,
sheep protector, arrester of thugs, thieves and poachers,
surveyor, mine inspector, field man on homestead jobs
inside the limits, tree doctor, nurseryman. When
you consider that each man’s patrol stretched
out in a straight line would reach from New York past
Albany, or from St. Paul to Duluth, without any of
the inaccuracy with which a specialist loves to charge
the layman, you may say the ranger is a pretty busy
man.
What sort of man is he? Very
much the same type as the Canadian Northwest Mounted
Policeman, with these differences: He is very
much younger. I think there is a regulation somewhere
in the Department that a new man older than forty-five
will not be taken. This insures enthusiasm, weeding
out the misfits, the formation of a body of men trained
to the work; but I am not sure that it is not a mistake.
There is a saying among the men of the North that
“it takes a wise old dog to catch a wary old
wolf;” and “there are more things in the
woods than ever taught in l’pe’tee cat-ee-cheesm.”
I am not sure that the weathered old dogs, whose catechism
has been the woods and the world, with lots of hard
knocks, are not better fitted to cope with some of
the difficulties of the ranger’s life than a
double-barreled post-graduate from Yale or Biltmore.
So much depends on fist, and the brain behind the
fist. I am quite sure that many of the blackguard
tricks assailing the Forest Service would slink back
to unlighted lairs if the tricksters had to deal not
with the boys of Eastern colleges, gentlemen always,
but with some wise and weathered old dog of frontier
life who wouldn’t consult Departmental regulations
before showing his fangs. He would consult them,
you know; but it would be afterwards. Just now,
while the rangers are consulting the red tape, the
trickster gets away with the goods.
In the next place, your Forest ranger
is not clothed with the authority to back up his fight
which the N.W.M.P. man possesses. In theory, your
ranger is a United States marshal, just as your Mounted
Policeman is a constable and justice of the peace;
but when it comes to practice, where the N.W.M.P.
has a free hand on the instant, on the spot, to arrest,
try, convict and imprison, the Forest ranger is ham-strung
and hampered by official red tape. For instance,
riding out with a ranger one day, we came on an irate
mill man who opened out a fusillade in all the profanity
his tongue could borrow. The ranger turned toward
me aghast.
“Don’t mind me! Let
him swear himself out! I want to see for myself
exactly what you men have to deal with!”
Now, if that mill man had used such
language to a Mounted Policeman, he would have been
arrested, sentenced to thirty days and a fine, all
inside of twenty-four hours. What was it all about?
An attempt to bulldoze a young government man into
believing that the taking of logs without payment
was permissible.
“What will you do to straighten it all out?”
I asked.
“Lay a statement of the facts
before the District Supervisor. The Supervisor
will forward all to Denver. Denver will communicate
with Washington. Then, soon as the thing has
been investigated, word will come back from Washington.”
Investigated? If you know anything
about government investigations, you will not stop
the clock, as Joshua played tricks with the sun dial,
to prevent speed.
“Then, it’s a matter of
six weeks before you can put decency and respect for
law in that gentleman’s heart?” I asked.
“Perhaps longer,” said
the college man without a suspicion of irony, “and
he has given us trouble this way ever since he has
come to the Forests.”
“And will continue to give you
trouble till the law gives you a free hand to put
such blackguards to bed till they learn to be good.”
“Yes, that’s right.
This isn’t the first time men have tried to get
away with logs that didn’t belong to them.
Once, when I came back to the first Forest where I
served, there was a whole pile of logs stamped U.
S. that we had never scaled. By the time we could
get word back from Washington, the guilty party had
left the State and blame had been shunted round on
a poor half-witted fellow who didn’t know what
he was doing; but we forced pay for those logs.”
It is a common saying in the Northwest
that it takes eight years to make a good Mounted Policeman-eight
years to jounce the duffer out and the man in; but
in the Forest Service, men over forty-five are not
taken. For men who serve up to forty-five, the
inducements of salary beginning at $65 a month and
seldom exceeding $200 are not sufficient to retain
tested veterans. The big lumber companies will
pay a trained forester more for the same work on privately
owned timber limits; so the rangers remain for the
most part young. Would the same difficulties rise
if wise old dogs were on guard? I hardly think
so.
What manner of man is the ranger?
As we sat round the little parlor of the cabin that
night in the Vasquez Forest, an army man turned forester
struck up on a piano that had been packed on horseback
above cloud-line strains of Wagner and Beethoven.
A graduate of Ann Arbor and post-graduate of Yale
played with a cigarette as he gazed at his own fancies
through the mica glow of the coal stove. A Denver
boy, whose mother kept house in the cabin, was chief
ranger. In the group was his sister, a teacher
in the village school; and I fancy most of the ranger
homes present pretty much the same types, though one
does not ordinarily expect to hear strains of grand
opera above cloud-line. Picture the men dressed
in sage-green Norfolk suits; and you have as rare a
scene as Scott ever painted of the men in Lincoln
green in England’s borderland forests.
Of course, there are traitors and
spies and Judas Iscariots in the Service with lip
loyalty to public weal and one hand out behind for
thirty pieces of silver to betray self-government;
but under the present regime, such men are not kept
when found out, nor shielded when caught. For
twenty years, the world has been ringing with praise
of the Northwest Mounted Police; but the red-coat
men have served their day; and the extension of Provincial
Government will practically disband the force in a
few years. Right now, in the American West, is
a similar picturesque body of frontier fighters and
wardens, doing battle against ten times greater odds,
with little or no authority to back them up, and under
constant fire of slanderous mendacity set going by
the thieves and grafters whose game of spoliation
has been stopped. Let spread-eagleism look at
the figures and ponder them, and never forget them,
especially never forget them, when charges are being
hurled against the Forest rangers! In the single
fire of 1909 more rangers lost their lives than Mounted
Policemen have died in the Service since 1870, when
the force was organized.
Was it Nietzsche, or Haeckel, or Maeterlinck,
or all of them together, who declared that Nature’s
constant aim is to perpetuate and surpass herself?
The sponge slipping from vegetable to animal kingdom;
the animal grading up to man; man stretching his neck
to become-what?-is it spirit,
the being of a future world? The tadpole striving
for legs and wings, till in the course of the centuries
it developed both. The flower flaunting its beauty
to attract bee and butterfly that it may perfect its
union with alien pollen dust and so perpetuate a species
that shall surpass itself. The tree trying to
encompass and overcome the law of its own being-fixity-by
sending its seeds sailing, whirling, aviating the
seas of the air, with wind for pilot to far distant
clime.
You see it all of a sun-washed morning
in a ride or walk through the National Forests.
You thought the tree was an inanimate thing, didn’t
you? Yet you find John Muir and Dante clasping
hands across the centuries in agreement that the tree
is a living, sensate thing, sensate almost as you
are; with its seven ages like the seven ages of man;
with the same ceaseless struggle to survive, to be
fit to survive, to battle up to light and stand in
serried rank proud among its peers, drawing life and
strength straight from the sun.
The storm wind ramps through its thrashing
branches; and what do you suppose it is doing?
Precisely what the storm winds of adversity do to
you and me: blowing down the dead leaves, snapping
off the dead branches, making us take tighter hold
on the verities of the eternal rocks, teaching us
to anchor on facts, not fictions, destroying our weakness,
strengthening our flabbiness, making us prove our right
to be fit to survive. Woe betide the tree with
rotten heart wood or mushy anchorage! You see
its fate with upturned roots still sticky with the
useless muck. Not so different from us humans
with mushy creeds that can’t stand fast against
the shocks of life!
You say all this is so much symbolism;
but when the First Great Cause made the tree as well
as the man, is it surprising that the same laws of
life should govern both? It is the forester, not
the symbolist, who divides the life of the tree into
seven ages; just as it is the poet, not the philosopher,
who divides the life of man in seven ages; and it
needs no Maeterlinck, or Haeckel, to trace the similarity
between the seven ages. Seedling, sapling, large
sapling, pole, large pole, standard and set-marking
the ages of the trees-all have their prototypes
in the human. The seedling can grow only under
the protecting nursery of earth, air, moisture and
in some cases the shade of other trees. The young
conifers, for instance, grow best under the protecting
nursery of poplars and cottonwoods, as one sees where
the fire has run, and the quick growers are already
shading the shy evergreens. And there is the
same infant mortality among the young trees as in human
life. Too much shade, fire, drought, passing
hoof, disease, blight, weeds out the weaklings up
to adolescence. Then, the real business of living
begins-it is a struggle, a race, a constant
contention for the top, for the sunlight and air and
peace at the top; and many a grand old tree reaches
the top only when ripe for death. Others live
on their three score years and ten, their centuries,
and in the case of the sugar pines and séquoias,
their decades of centuries. First comes the self-pruning,
the branches shaded by their neighbors dying and dropping
off. And what a threshing of arms, of strength
against strength, there is in the storm wind, every
wrench tightening grip, to the rocks, some trees even
sending down extra roots like guy ropes for anchorhold.
The tree uncrowded by its fellows shoots up straight
as a mast pole, whorl on whorl of its branches spelling
its years in a century census. It is the crowded
trees that show their almost human craft, their instinct
of will to live-cork-screwing sidewise
for light, forking into two branches where one branch
is broken or shaded, twisting and bending, ever seeking
the light, and spreading out only when they reach room
for shoulder swing at the top, with such a mechanism
of pumping machinery to hoist barrels of water up
from secret springs in the earth as man has not devised
for his own use. And now, when the crown has widened
out to sun and air, it stops growing and bears its
seeds-seeds shaped like parachutes and
canoes and sails and wings, to overcome the law of
its own fixity-life striving to surpass
itself, as the symbolists and the scientists say,
though symbolist and scientist would break each other’s
heads if you suggested that they both preach the very
same thing.
And a lost tree is like a lost life;
utter loss, bootless waste. You see it in the
bleached skeleton spars of the dead forest where the
burn has run. You see it where the wasteful lumberman
has come cutting half-growns and leaving stumps of
full-growns three or four feet high with piles of
dry slash to carry the first chance spark. The
leaf litter here would have enriched the soil and
the waste slash would keep the poor of an Eastern
city in fuel. Once, at a public meeting, I happened
to mention the ranger’s rule that stumps must
be cut no higher than eighteen inches, and the fact
that in the big tree region of the Rocky Mountains
many stumps are left three and four feet high.
Someone took smiling exception to the height of those
stumps. Yet in the redwood and Douglas fir country
stumps are cut, not four feet, but nine feet high,
leaving waste enough to build a small house. And
it will take not a hundred, not two hundred, but a
thousand years, to bring up a second growth of such
trees.
Sitting down to dinner at a little
mountain inn, I noticed only two families besides
ourselves; and they were residents of the mountain.
I thought of those hotels back in the cities daily
turning away health seekers.
“How is it you haven’t
more people here, when the cities can’t take
care of all the people who come?” I asked the
woman of the house.
“People don’t seem to
know about the National Forests,” she said.
“They think the forests are only places for
lumber and mills.”